The trailer is correctly coupled to the towball or pin - follow the manufacturer’s advice

The coupling height is correct

The 7 or 13 core cable and plug isn’t damaged

Breakaway cable

Use a breakaway cable or secondary coupling. This engages the trailer’s brakes (if fitted) or stops the trailer if it becomes detached from the car.

Check that:

The cable isn’t worn or damaged

There’s enough slack in the cable so that it doesn’t accidentally apply the brakes

The cable won’t drag on the ground when you’re driving

Follow the manufacturer’s advice to make sure it’s connected correctly.

Wheels and tyres

Check that the tyres on both the car and trailer:

Don’t have any cuts or bulges

Are inflated to the manufacturer’s specification for the load being carried

Check that each tyre has a tread depth of at least 1.6mm:

Across the central three-quarters of the breadth of the tread

Around the entire circumference of the tyre

Check that the wheel nuts and bolts are tightened to the correct torque.

Check that mudguards are fitted to the trailer and they’re secure.

Lights and indicators

Check that there’s no damage to the lights, and that they’re all working correctly.

Load and weight limit - Check that:

The trailer isn’t overloaded

The load is distributed evenly

The load is secure

Find your car’s weight limit

The vehicle manufacturer’s plate gives information about weight limits for your car. Check the car’s handbook if a plate isn’t fitted.

Trailer with no braking system

The loaded trailer:

must not weigh over 750kg

should not weigh more than 50% of your car’s weight

Trailer with braking system

The car and loaded trailer must not weigh over the second weight shown on the car manufacturer’s plates.

When you’re driving

You must not drive faster than the speed limit for the type of road.

If the trailer starts to snake or swerve, ease off the accelerator and reduce your speed gently. It’s a sign that either:

You’re going too fast

The trailer is loaded incorrectly

Don’t brake harshly on a bend, as it makes the trailer unstable. Reduce your speed in plenty of time when approaching any hazard.

Motorways

You must not drive in the right-hand lane of a motorway with 3 or more lanes.

Towing Tips

• If the trailer will be standing for a length of time never leave the handbrake on – chock the wheels

• Rocking/revolving the wheels a couple of inches will help prevent the trailer from seizing up

• Don’t over grease the bearings as over greasing can push the rubber seal out or it could burst

• Use a good quality grease

• Check the expiry dates on your tyres as they have a life span of up to 7 years

• Be careful when driving over potholes as you can get bent axels

• Check your tyres aren’t worn

• Mud guards can be damaged from hitting the kerb

Horsebox/cattle trailer:

• Check the floor

• Lift the rubber mats, if the floor is wooden check for rotting, if the floor is aluminium check for cracks

• Take the rubber mat out when washing the inside

• Check the running gear/brakes

• Check the side panels for rotting at the bottom

• Ensure the ramp doors haven’t worn  

• Investigate wearing on the rear side of the trailer 

Boat trailers:

• If taking the boat to the water let the trailer cool for ½ hour before emerging it into the water

• After a trailer being submerged in the sea it is advised to flush the brakes/running with fresh water, this will prevent the trailer from rusting

• An option is to fit a flushing kit to the brakes if it’s a boat trailer

• If the trailer will be standing for a length of time, it’s advised to raise the trailer so that the tyres are off the ground. Use wooden blocks – not concrete or bricks as these can shatter/crumble